Farm Story
Young people returning to their hometowns are full of ambition, bringing modern scientific knowledge back to their roots, injecting new life into century-old farmsteads, and continuing their heritage.
Although the Alishan area has an ideal planting environment, before the railway system was improved, there were problems with trading agricultural goods with the outside world. The residents of Niu Mo Jiao Village carried charcoal, dried bamboo shoots, and other mountain products on their shoulders, walking day and night on the Meishan Ancient Trail carved out by nature’s craftsmanship. Since the Qing Dynasty, pioneers who came to Taiwan cultivated terraced fields along the mountain line to plant sweet potatoes and sugarcane, and collected bamboo shoots in bamboo forests. In the old days, yaks would rub their horns against Lagerstroemia subcostata trees during their rest time, hence the area around Ruifeng Village in Meishan, Chiayi, has been called Niu Mo Jiao Village since ancient times.
Taiwan’s agriculture has long faced the problem of an aging population, and Niu Mo Jiao Village is no exception. From the rice paddies that nurtured generations to the betel nuts and tea that created economic miracles, they have witnessed Taiwan’s development and changes over the past century. However, as times progressed, agriculture was gradually replaced by industry and service sectors, with younger generations leaving their hometowns for better job opportunities in cities. The fields of Niu Mo Jiao Village are no longer busy, with only a few elderly farmers still working diligently in what were once lush rice paddies and green tea gardens. Chen Yan-xi, after spending over a decade in northern Taiwan, studying at National Yang-Ming University and National Taiwan University, and even working at Academia Sinica, decided to give up urban life and return to his hometown at an opportune moment.
Chen Yan-xi originally intended to grow kiwifruit, but perhaps by fate’s arrangement, coffee, which had never been on his mind, became the choice for his life’s turning point. Niu Mo Jiao Village’s three garden areas have about 1,000 coffee trees mixed with tea and other crops, with a planting area that is not particularly large. Therefore, Chen Yan-xi must be meticulous in his cultivation. His academic background in scientific research allows him to quickly grasp the logical patterns of planting. Through continuous study, evaluation participation, and exhibitions, he applies what he has learned to practice, improving planting methods and enhancing coffee quality.
Global climate extremes have made it urgent to reform crops to adapt to modern climate conditions, especially coffee crops that highly depend on altitude, temperature, and humidity. Under the influence of the greenhouse effect, problems of floods and droughts have emerged one after another, and Niu Mo Jiao Garden has also encountered obstacles of yields not meeting expectations. However, facing these challenges, Niu Mo Jiao Garden has not resigned itself to fate but actively formulated response strategies to reduce the impact of climate change on coffee cultivation and maintain stable quality and yield. Taiwan has rich agricultural technology and experience, with breeding and grafting being some effective methods. By selecting coffee varieties with strong adaptability and resistance, they aim to improve the quality and yield of coffee trees under extreme climate conditions. Currently, Niu Mo Jiao Garden has selected six coffee varieties in the garden area for experimental observation, hoping to find the most suitable coffee variety for the local climate and provide data for future planting.
With technological advancements, data statistics cover an increasingly wide range of items. Therefore, Niu Mo Jiao Garden uses regional climate data analysis and model predictions to precisely locate the best planting areas, avoiding areas more affected by extreme weather. This precise analysis and planning allow coffee trees to grow in the most suitable areas, thus producing coffee beans with better flavor. Niu Mo Jiao Garden started planting coffee in 2017, and its scientific, modernized planting methods have quickly earned it numerous awards in evaluations and auctions. In 2021, Niu Mo Jiao won the top prize in the washed coffee category at the Alishan Manor Coffee Elite Competition. During this period, Niu Mo Jiao continued to win various awards. Now in 2024, Niu Mo Jiao Garden has once again won the top prize in the washed coffee category at the same competition, with the only difference being that in addition to the washed category, they also won the gold award in the Geisha category.
Besides achievements in coffee cultivation, Niu Mo Jiao, concerned about its local land, has noticed that the Russet Sparrow, concentrated in the mountainous areas of central and southern Taiwan, has faced a sharp decline in numbers in recent years. Currently, there are less than a thousand individuals left, listed as an endangered protected species. To protect the Russet Sparrow, Niu Mo Jiao Village has implemented a conservation plan, setting up protected areas within the village and planting vegetation suitable for Russet Sparrow habitation to ensure their safe survival. In addition, Niu Mo Jiao Garden regularly conducts Russet Sparrow population surveys, monitoring population numbers and health conditions, and collaborating with academic institutions for in-depth research. To raise residents’ awareness of Russet Sparrow conservation, Niu Mo Jiao Village has organized multiple conservation lecture events, mobilizing the community to participate in protection efforts. These efforts not only help protect the Russet Sparrow but also promote environmental awareness in the community, raising more attention and support for local species protection.
Stories of ups and downs are always captivating. Chen Yan-xi, an elite with seemingly perfect academic and professional backgrounds, returned to the land that nurtured him after tasting life’s bitterness and sweetness. He uses all he has learned to dedicate himself to reviving this land. It’s a big gamble – often an all-or-nothing situation: succeed or perish. However, without such courage, how could we taste that aromatic cup of coffee? As the fragrance of coffee flowers wafts over, it signifies the rebirth and glory of Niu Mo Jiao Village, now an elder in its own right.
Farm Information
Website: https://www.gubuakak-estate.com/
Address: No. 4, Ruifeng Village, Meishan Township, Chiayi County
Cultivation Altitude: 1000-1200 meters
Estate Area: 0.7 hectares
